Sulking: No Surf

Because of the long weekend (Labour Day weekend), I got another chance to surf yesterday.  Lois had to work, and she was my board hire connection, so I just assumed I was going to have a lazy day at the beach.  However, two of my friends (Douglas and Tice) were already surfing when we got to the beach.  

Within 5 minutes of us getting to the beach, Douglas was ready to retire his board so he asked me if I wanted to try.  I don't think he expected me to want to surf as badly as I did, but he didn't end up getting his board back the rest of the day.  

I spent the next 3 hours surfing.  It took me a bit to get back into the hang of things, but eventually I was standing up and riding waves in.  I even had some private lessons from one of the men out in the water.  He must have been able to tell I was quite the beginner.

With a scratched stomach (because I didn't wear a rashie) and a sun-kissed face, I finally went in for the day.  It was lucky anyways because about 5 minutes later, a lifeguard called everyone out of the water because a shark was spotted.

Our view of the beach this morning

I decided that I really wanted to surf in the morning before work, so I made a point of going to bed early and setting two alarms for the morning.  I actually got up this morning, got dressed and ready to go, and headed into town with Lois and my board. 

When we got to the beach, however, we were wildly disappointed. The waves were small and extremely choppy.  We walked up the beach trying to figure out how we could possibly ride some of the waves. In the end, we just decided to walk back to the Arts Factory.

I was quite angry just because we got up early, got ready, and walked to the beach with our heavy surfboards, only to find that we couldn't surf.  At the same time, I think this morning taught us a few things as novice surfers:

• Surfing isn't always better in the morning
• Walking to the beach with a board sucks, so make it count
• ALWAYS check the conditions
• Always give yourself enough time

We have yet to successfully surf in the morning, but one day we will.  Hopefully even this week.  I know for sure though that I will ensure that the conditions are worth waking up and trekking down to the beach for.