My friend Lois and I had been talking about going surfing for the past two weeks, but we kept putting it off for various reasons. Either it started raining (even though I've heard surfing in the rain is quite nice), we didn't wake up early enough to go or one of us had to work.
We finally went again yesterday. Lois takes photos during the surf lessons for Mojo and one of the instructors wants to sell one of her boards. Lois really likes the board so she wanted to try it out and see if it'll be a good board for her. The only problem is is that Lois is a beginner surfer, and the board she used is a short one, which is more difficult to surf on.
I was able to use a surf board from Nomads in Byron because they sort of partner with Mojo. Although they had long boards available, I wanted to try one a little bit shorter. I assumed the one I grabbed was a mini mal, or a fun board, but it was actually just a hybrid board that was half of a foot longer than Lois'. I figured I would give it a go anyways.
After we had finally gotten our boards squared away, Lois, Douglas, and I headed towards the beach. There are several beaches for us to choose from, but we decided on Belongil Beach. Douglas and I decided against wet suits, although Douglas probably should have grabbed one--he had to keep getting out of the water because he was so cold.
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Belongil Beach |
We headed out into the water where there were decent waves, but also plenty of seasoned surfers who intimidated the three of us. We tried to somewhat stay in our own area just so we could stay out of the other surfers' ways. Sets kept rolling in while we attempted to catch waves. I had never even surfed on a regular board--I had only ever surfed on a foam board at surf camp--let alone a short board. I tried, and tried, and tried, but didn't manage to stand up all day.
Regardless of my success, I had a fun day overall. I also was able to successfully complete an Eskimo roll! It felt good to get out of my tent for the day and spend it in the ocean, even if the only progress I made was tackling my fear of Eskimo rolls. Eventually Lois had to go because she had to work at 4 pm so we grabbed our boards and headed back to the Arts Factory.
We were feeling determined to get a better day of surfing in, so the three of us decided we wanted to get up at 5:30 am the next day to surf. Needless to say, we didn't get up this morning and surf because Douglas and I didn't have wet suits, and we know we would have been freezing this morning. Even I wasn't that brave to surf in the early morning without a wet suit. Hopefully today we will have wet suits, though, so that we can go in the morning.
I'm crossing my fingers that I'll be able to go to sleep early tonight so that I can actually get up early to surf tomorrow before work. My upper back is sore just from the paddling, but I love muscle soreness, especially since I haven't worked out in quite a while. Hopefully, if I actually get in the habit of surfing nearly ever day, I'll be more fit and in better shape in no time.